June 17, 2014

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN/ Zip Zap Zoom Day 2!



DAY 2 of LC:M has come and gone! Get to know the best looks from the shows!

CONTINUED AFTER THE JUMP!


KTZ



Techno gladiators gods clad in graphic black, white, orange, and gold. Never been too fond of overtly historical themed collections like Dolce & Gabbana AW14 but the techno side of KTZ's SS15 collection might just convince me otherwise.


JAMES LONG


Long haired skater boys breeze down the runway in patchwork and primary colours at James Long's spring summer collection. Bold energetic strips emblazon patched denim jackets, sweaters, tunics, and are even reflected in graphic socks and sandals.


CHRISTOPHER KANE



Evolving from the faces and busts from SS14, Kane evolves backwards by going back to primary colour palate and simplifying the details. His mens and womens collections always share a common inspiration from one season to another - this season's motif, continued from his AW14 womens collection, the seemingly fractal-esque layering of paper. Taking a more graphic approach, instead of a more tactile one as seen in is SS14 womens line, the "pages" are simplified into colour blocked shards, abstracted and enlarged crosshatches, and a magnified floral-esque print.


PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND



This season showed royalty modernized through premium tailoring and updated silhouettes while remaining true to the house's roots with their signature gingham checks.


MARGARET HOWELL



Infamous for her classic aesthetic, Margaret Howell chooses to go against the grain by tossing out all notion of "fashion" and "trends" and instead only accepting the idea of an evolution. For the untrained eye, very few things are noticeably different from one collection to the next. However upon inspection of the details, Howell's mantra makes itself clear - wide cuffed trousers and boy-scout neck scarves made the difference this season.


MOSCHINO



When Jeremy Scott moves into a fashion house, you know. In Moschino's case, it meant mish-mashed soda pop happy-go-lucky culture clashing branding tomfoolery. Playing on LV's classic monogram and Moschino's name, brashly re-branded "Fauxchino", Jeremy Scott stops at nothing to make his mark on a classically tongue-in-cheek fashion house. I gotta give it to the girls looks though, SO SEXY. I think I still need some time to process the mens though.


CASLEY-HAYFORD


Pinstripes for the young, Casley-Hayford, a father-son duo, makes suiting for young sportswear punks. Set to a heavy track of Led Zepplin, the rebellious edge of the collection were really able to show their teeth. Cool, slick, and with a little bit of grit, this collection felt really relevant and hit a sweet spot that other collections seemed to somehow miss.


ALEXANDER MCQUEEN





A bit of a curve ball on this one (not complaining at all though)  Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen takes the bright road with the menswear line. By experimenting with proportion and loosening up her traditionally Victorian silhouettes, Burton has launched McQueen's menswear line to dimensions. With motifs inspired by Matisse, the primary reds yellows and blues, waft across her designs in all the right ways. With reception of this collection seeming to be only positive, it'll be interesting to see where Burton takes it from here!


J.W. ANDERSON




Always one to keep us on our toes, J.W. Anderson again manages to bring gender neutrality to the table in fresh and exciting ways. Opening the collection with landscape-knit tops, the designs transition to feature sweater-tanks and shoulder-tied tunics. I've always been a huge fan of Anderson's knotty fabric manipulation and these garments are no exception. The rubber-tube-neck-knots are quite a lovely addition as well.


XANDER ZHOU



Glitter, optical stripes, and more glitter! Loving Zhous structured and fluid silhouettes make sweet love in this experiential collection. Choosing to style the collection with face-string, electrified hair, and rough strokes of paint on the faces make for an even more high-voltage show. 

Until next time (or tomorrow),
-Marchel