June 16, 2014

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN SS15/ Warp Speed!





 IT'S THAT (SECOND) TIME OF YEAR AGAIN!

Get ready for a warp speed viewing of LC:M SS15. I'm not covering EVERY single designer but I will be covering quite a selection. LC:M is mah fav fashion event just for all the new talent that is introduced by MAN. J.W. Anderson, Bobby Abley, and Christopher Shannon are just a handful of really fresh talent that have been ushered into the spotlight over the past couple of seasons!

ENOUGH TALK, LET'S GET TO IT!

CONTINUED AFTER THE JUMP!


MAN: NICOMEDE TALAVERA

Nicomede Talavera's first collection for MAN. Initial thoughts: LOVE THIS! But oh wait, is it because I also love Raf + J.W.+ CDG Homme Plus? Maybe a bit too similar to the previously mentioned but there are some really good ideas happening and I'm always down for a good cut+sew outfit. The kilt/pant on the left is a must have for me.


 MAN: BOBBY ABLEY




Bobby brings it again for his last collection with MAN - this time with The Little Mermaid in mind. Loving the fitted lurex shirt/briefs combo, the fringy glitter set, as well as the oversized sk8r silhouette that are becoming synonymous with Abley's name. After seeing last season's collection and this seasons collection, one has to wonder how long he can float on re-interpreting various Disney movies. I love, but I'm also worried.


TOPMAN DESIGN

   



I love Topman Design. Even when I don't love it, I love it. The places they go with their collections is admirable. Topman Design is honeybadger and honeybader really dont give a shit. This season's collection is inspired by the psychedelic 70s and 3D printing and scanning. Slender silhouettes exaggerated by bellbottom trousers and wallpaper florals exploded against bold laser-beam stripes. Very retro-future, very the dream of the 70s is alive in Topman... boo hiss that was a bad one.


LOU DALTON



Clean, and fresh. Modern tailoring at its lightest.  Powder pastels/ Power pastels. Lou Dalton made masculine lighter without sacrificing any testosterone. Crisp. Definitely crisp.


RICHARD NICHOLL



So many pastels! *early trend alert?*. Lets keep an eye on that one. Richard Nicholl plays with shapes - how much fun can he have without resorting to layers? Apparently he can have a lot of fun! Laid back and young, Nicholl's collection was reminiscent of preppy art school students on the last day of school, a little bit lackadaisical and a very care-free.


 CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN


Not too much to say about Christopher Raeburn. Great use of technical fabrics and a refreshing modern look at military tech wear. Casual weekend military tech. Maybe I'll go for a hike too, in my casual military tech jacket (pic on the right).  


 LEE ROACH


Slick and understatedly sexy. Just how I like my men. Smart jackets styled casually with simple graphic detailing in the closures or printed on the under layer. Dat khaki jacket/trouser and mesh shirt combo is super sexy and masculine without being obnoxious. On that note, a lot of collections in the past couple seasons have been playing with mesh and transparent fabrics and subtly revealing more of the male form while nodding to the sports turned sport-lux story that's been evolving for some time now.


MATTHEW MILLER



Dark pinstripes, funereal corsages, and some graphic typographic cut + sew. Little bit of punk emo comeback, and about time I say. Loving the pinstripes which add a sartorial twist to the romantically sinister collection.


CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

 


2000s cybergoth meets 80s punk rebel. Hair twists, mirrored shades, and some really fun collage work. Shannon continues playing with oversized proportion, this time taking a more graphic approach. The first few looks add pieces onto the garments while later in the collection Shannon collages with negative space. And I spy some Miro references? Ooooh aaah. 


 ASTRID ANDERSEN



This is Astrid Andersen's first solo show after MAN and girl was it great. Sticking to her sports instincts, Andersen transitions from last season's wresting collection to a more Japanese/sumo direction.  Not a designer afraid of exposing the male figure, Andersen suited up her boys in mesh, crops, and Japanese Keshō-mawashi, traditionally used in Sumo as a ceremonial pre-wrestling garment that also advertises the wrester's sponsor. On another Japanese note, note the kimono (only one shown here but there were more) which was also a shape seen at Topman Design.

JONATHAN SAUNDERS

Another 70s retro-future collection, Jonathan Saunders presented a golden SS15. Golden stripes, thick and thin paired with neutrals and topped off with wide flat-topped amber-mirroed sunnies, also seen on Christopher Shannon's boys. 

AGI & SAM


 Agi & Sam loosen up their silhouettes further this season and top it off with a Beatles mop-cut. Think Freckled 60s Mod Matrix-Jedi. Can ya dig it? Cause I can. Agi & Sam's tailoring creates a fascinating play with structure and draping - roomy but not sloppy. Their wide legged bottoms complimented by long panels extending out the bottom of boxy shirts or contrasted by tight and high waistbands. Mustard (trend colour?), white and greys were blocked and contrasted against a cobalt and grey gridded floor.

Stay tuned for more LC:M this week!
Until next time,
-Marchel