January 19, 2014

M1L4N M3NS F4SH0N AW14/ Playing Catch-Up

Hey everyone, yet again I've been a bad boy and I fell behind on my mens shows. So I'm going to give everyone a quick and simple relay though some of the best... and some not so best looks from the Milan and Paris Mens Fashion Weeks all in one post!

Lets start with Milan,
JIL SANDER


As far as simplistic goes, I'm loving Jil Sander's AW14 collection for it's textures and colour palate. Stiff shapes and clean styling keep the collection cool and collected with a modern classy edge. For those of you who might not know, Jil Sander actually left her brand for the third time, and this collection was designed by the in-house team. Bravo! I can't wait to get my hands on the grey t-shirt on the bottom right, perfect for those days you just want to be grey and boxy, which for me is surprisingly more often than one might think!


MSGM


CONTINUED AFTER THE JUMP!

 MSGM continues their prints from SS14 into their AW14 season evolving them from abstract brush strokes into marble and calligraphy. MSGM's usually just a step out of my aesthetic range but I liked these four looks so much I had to make a spot of them!


NEIL BARRETT


Neil Barret had some fun this season with a lighting bolt motif which I absolutely adore! My favourites are for sure the top left and right sweaters. Although a bit mature upon a first glance, a handful of looks featured ombr├ęd felt and leather outerwear which added to the collection's visual wit. Not sure what to think about the Mercedes logo though.


JOHN VARVATOS


I don't usually care about John Varvatos at all, like at ALL... But I really liked these three looks. So here I am. These three photos don't show it but the whole collection was inspired by KISS. I know, who even does that? Jonny over here does. Regardless, you've gotta agree, that the leather ribs harness vest on the right is pretty sick.


ICEBERG



At first it looks like Iceberg was giving a small nod to Kenzo's red skies but then you realize that you've run right into a digital snowstorm with printed plaids violently distorted in photoshop with the liquify tool. Boxy outerwear is layered with loose sweaters and a long button-up while slim pants finish the look off. Fuzzy and furry sweaters and snoods soften and cosy up the clean layers. Seriously, though can't get over the distorted prints, especially on the pants. So. Cool.


CALVIN KLEIN

Acne called, they want their Brian Sweatshirt back. Okay I'm sorry, I'm being rude. But answer me this, why the colognes? I can't help but feel like they tried to cash in on the neoprene trend but couldn't do anything conceptually with it. Same with their SS13 cloud printed neoprene shirts a season after Kenzo. I like, but I cant help but feel slightly disappointed with the re-hashed ideas. On another note, the metallic wide-legged pants are in my good books and so is the 70s hiking-businessman look. One thumb up.


VIVIENNE WESTWOOD


Metallics, panelling, and prints on prints filled the runway at Vivienne Westwood. Ken-doll models all sported painted hair bringing cohesiveness to the whole collection of sports, retro, and grunge outfits. With Westwood bringing together a variety of fabrics, textures, and patterns, the result is a delightfully modern and eccentric collection, and what else would we expect?


PRADA


 Can't help but feel a bit disappointed with Prada this season. There's always this youthfulness I look forwards to when I look at Prada and I feel like this show missed that. There's usually always something fun and unique in the styling too but this season the most complex thing was a scarf under a tank top. I mention that I love the colour palate, but on the other hand, not being a huge fan of western, I'm disappointed to say this collection just didn't click with me. Maybe you can change my mind? Let me know what you think in the comments.


MARNI


Marni presents their AW14 collection and I'm loving it! Square silhouettes resonate throughout the line from the hats to the jackets to the relaxed-legged rolled and short-hemmed pants. Furry vests jackets and bags buff up the warmth factor and visual texture. Not afraid of quirky accessories, arm-warmers and fur vests are layered over jacket arms with a boxy fur cap to top it off. Laaahhhve itttt.


PORTS 1961


 Classic menswear shapes take on some now-familiar sports silhouettes with fitting tops, windbreakers and dropped sleeve t-shirts. What keeps it fresh is the backpacks and roll necks that hint at mountain climbing and hiking as opposed to the varsity-sport themes we've been seeing a lot of the past few seasons. Finished off with some elegant capes and shades, this collection wonderfully clean and masculine.

GUCCI


This season Gucci is anything but hoochy. From the dusty colour palate to the clean and sporty luxurious shapes, Gucci steps out of the ordinary and into a dream. Furry jackets and oversized pillowy tops are mixed with slim leather shirting and  suiting. The result is quite pleasing to the eye and I can imagine it being even more pleasing to wear. I can't get over how masculine this collection is with the soft colours and textures, the combination makes me giddy!


MARC JACOBS


The dandy man continues with Marc Jacob's AW14 collection. Dapper detailing like mustard lining is consistent through this seasons' outerwear and is mirrored  on the outside by gold buttons and various shades of carmel in the peacock printed silk shirts. I'm taking a moment to enjoy the middle-right outfit, and the experimentation with a wider leg and cap. Casual-varsity-dandy? I'm okay with it!


FENDI

Saul, Kelsey, our new friend/model Matt, and I were playing Scattegories last night and the letter was F and the card said "things you save up to buy" so naturally after seeing this collection I put down 'Fendi Furs' and scored the two points. This ultra-luxury collection is swaddled literally in monster furs and say what you want about furs, I'm lovin' it. Can we also have a moment for that sweater on the left? How many textures are going on in that? It's like the sweater was caught mid-transformation into a monster and they threw it on the model and sent him down the runway before it eats him alive.


Honourable Mentions goes to....
DOLCE & GABBANA


This collection really came out of left field. Game of Thrones? Sure, why not? I figured designers were experimenting with turtlenecks/roll-necks/polo-necks which hark back to the late 18th Century, but the feudal period? D&G jumped the gun on this one and I feel like it wasn't in their favour. Every now and then I got a bad taste of McQueen-rip off but maybe it was just the new tea I bought. #studdedflatsareout


VERSACE




 I couldn't not post this, like... it's too good. Leave it to Donatella.



Until next time,
-Marchel